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Chanel's stunning High Jewelry Collection featuring reinterpretation of its iconic tweed pattern

Artisans of the highest calibre skillfully recreate the Maison's distinctive fabric, seemingly intertwining precious gemstones with meticulous craftsmanship.

By Adorian Assets Team

The information in this article was provided by Galerie.‍

Chanel stands unparalleled in its mastery of tweed. Once regarded as a functional textile, tweed has been exalted to the pinnacle of haute couture by Chanel, which has translated its textured weave into luxurious materials, a diverse array of colours, and bold designs. Among the brand's latest creations, none shimmer with as much elegance as Chanel's recently unveiled high-jewelry line, drawing inspiration from the traditional tweed motif.

The 63 pieces comprising the new Tweed de Chanel collection echo the imaginative flair that drove Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel to reinvent this classic fabric in the 1920s. After donning tweed jackets borrowed from her lover, the Duke of Westminster, during her jaunts in the Scottish countryside, she reimagined the cozy textiles in myriad hues, infusing them with her signature elegance, thus creating an enduring style still celebrated on Chanel's runways a century later.

Tweed Royal necklace. DIOR

While tweed may seem an unconventional muse for bespoke high jewelry, its inherent symbolism provided fertile ground for creativity at Chanel. "From the outset, I aspired to craft the most exquisite tweed imaginable using the finest materials," explains Patrice Leguéreau, head of the Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, who previously curated an equally impressive collection in 2020 using the same source material.

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Tweed de Chanel showcases five distinct interpretations, each emblematic of a signature element synonymous with Coco Chanel: a white ribbon, a pink camellia, a comet set against a midnight blue backdrop, a radiant sun in yellow, and a lion adorned in red. Among these variations, the Tweed Royal necklace is an intricate amalgamation of diamonds, rubies, and gold chains highlighted by a 10.17-carat, pear-shaped diamond and a detachable diamond lion head brooch. The Tweed Icône Étoile ring boasts a more intricate design, featuring yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, and onyx, with an 8.36-carat cushion-cut sapphire as its centrepiece adorned with star motifs reminiscent of Coco Chanel's inaugural high-jewelry collection from 1932, which featured celestial comet themes.

Tweed Icône Étoile ring. DIOR


But how does one transform diamonds, emeralds, and rubies into the likeness of tweed? "My approach was broad, rather than overly technical or specific," Leguéreau elaborates. Drawing from his initial encounter with Maison Lesage, the renowned embroidery atelier collaborating with Chanel on tweed, when he joined the fashion house 15 years ago, he adds, "There are numerous intricate components that must be harmonized and interwoven to create the illusion of genuine fabric." The outcome? Earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and rings that are not only exquisitely crafted but also lightweight, pliable, and captivating from all angles—a testament to unparalleled artistry.